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NDM 2010 - Lead

the weekend, more precisely on 1 May is the "North German Open Sport Climbing Championship 2010" in Hamburg DAV climbing center at . This means that the new hall at yesterday (28.4.) Until Thursday the 6.5. locked.

Afterwards hopefully give back a lot nicer and especially of new routes, because of the new hall was about half of the routes out screwed. In addition to stipulating that the new outer wall (safe in this weather very very useful!), Which together with their large overhangs and ledges for sure also great potential for many beautiful routes.

I will definitely screw new routes from Sunday until the hands bleed. Have there already brought one or the other idea of the last few weeks on the rock ... ;) Here gibs or the last pictures and a video of the new outer wall.

Official tender for the NDM and the application give it to Tom, on the page.


from Kärcher!

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enjoyment of sunshine

It occurred to winter this year before he was incredibly long and extremely economical garnished with sunny days. All the more, the past weekend, much as a hot bath after a week bivouac in a snow cave north face - or something like that.

We are on Saturday morning with the best weather prospects for the year in the luggage in direction of the cliffs started Ith. "We" this weekend, only Isa and myself. Since I been gone for years more in Lüerdissen was (for good reasons ...) and not Isa these beautiful rocks, knew we put forward the proof that it is the weekend in a strong social Lüerdissen, after close physical and rope contact yearning, masochistic side must have in order to be able to climb relaxed. Expert on the scene would argue that, particularly in the year ten thousand would be after the start of this evidence is totally unnecessary, but sometimes one wants to be incorrigible Release child.

So we were shortly before 10 clock ready to leave in the car park Lüerdissen. The number of cars and tents at that time was still manageable, so we quickly begin to sprint to rock number 2. This was necessary because about 10 minutes after we the northwest wall of the twin "taken", had already got a lot buntbehelmte cliques, presented but disappointed that the objective was busy - or it was on my feet ... The early bird catches the worm! :)

At about noon, then perhaps the courts with respect, because we could still share with the other three boys' twin, which was really relaxed. For Lüerdissen @ Weekend, at least. What are we actually climbed? Really not really much, but it would be so thoroughly enjoyed the sun on the summit after each successful way! We started with the NW Wall , followed by a clean red dot in "Long live the sports " and screwed it in Onsight Cube roof. The thing is even better than the very last time ...

Isa "Long live the sport (7 -)"

As it is confident after the first two Buehler Chatting after the first hook without key (Thanks to Karsten for pointing Ouch! ), the roof climbed four times (! on) and each time for 'ass-fast-on-the-edge-but-but-nothing-has become "clean again from (Kurt Albert would have been proud!) and then flies off but still at the fifth attempt. But this is only a 6! Well, maybe sometimes even shows me at some point someone how to climb the relaxed, because that is, is probably safe! ;)

After the dice kramp fakt force, we are still relaxed the climbed SO-edge and have watched on the rock face of the sun.

After completing "A weekend Lüerdissen Test , we are - surprise! - Did not go to the DAV campground, but have a cabin in based Naturfreundehaus Lauenstein . Who plays no mood for the party tent has, has the Naturfreundehaus a real alternative. As of when or whether the buck stops or starts, he is not one handed ... Age? Mind? Mood? Holländischkenntnisse? I do not know. What I know is that you will be treated Naturfreundehaus really really nice and caring and that the huts are very reminiscent of Norway. We found it totally cool! But I want the hustle and bustle on the DAV campground also do not want to miss ever ...

overtook us for Sunday then Kletterpartnerhilferuf of Peter, of course we are happy to comply. A real historian in the ropes, lifts mood and quality of every climbing trip huge, if you are from time to time to ensure the health of selfsame something must. But probably you should just get used to certain things with Peter, even if it is "difficult" (hehe).

The brief envisaged small cliffs of the circus were exchanged for the Marie Auer cliffs in the nature fußmarschnähe friends house. Hans Sorry for the confusion. Thus, the Sunday was marked by Phillip cliffs, stone and particularly high in the sign of plenty of sun, as available from this all day was enough. What a treat! Enjoyment were also really nice, even if meant something almost too well drilled through. We started with the corner of the post the little Phillip cliff, followed by passing away of the interesting and chimney climbing the " gutrot . Quick was still one of the initial blocks of " Thanks Karsten " ripped from the wall and demonstrated that, despite prohibitions club can sometimes have crashpads its right to exist (aua!), but then was called the road climbed successfully! According to this fact, the traditional sporting structures southeast wall of the large cliff Phillip controlled and climbed successfully. A really nice climbing in that degree.

Peter "thank Karsten (7 -)"

Following this path, we went to the high stone of all collaborators on the successful SW wall was climbed. Technically, climbing a real Cream Pies, if you have enough exes entrains ... ;) The High Stone is a real peak and thus has a real summit book in which the rope team immortalized like, conscientiously and with appropriate, correct notation. My first book in the Ith summit after all these years!

marked the end of Sunday a three-way cable lengths. Uh, yes? Access via the perfection on low wall, then through block terrain (2 -,-free) up to Lauensteiner pulpit in order then the extended Boulder " Rattenscharf "the third track to complete.) We pushed one or the narrow side to tackle the Boulder hooked a little more relaxed from the top can This was after a first attempt already climbed That was not so a few years ago liquid.. . In lead climbing, it is courageous for the third hook -. the block in the back threatens being evil with contact in flight case

The way back through the sun to Nature house, a huge salad later in Hildesheim with two pieces of gold, which befitting, liquid supply and the relaxed ride home form the perfect ending for a (nearly) perfect weekend crap dice roof.!)

of Yahtzee!

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Petzl Ascension Ascender - product reviews

My brief excursion into the technical climbing at the weekend brought me back to the fact that I have the new version of the mother of all the ascenders, the Petzl Ascension wanted to present.

I usually climb is technically not on purpose, asks the gentle reader and free climbers, what do I want with the terminal. My main use of the ascender is usually as a universal means of setting up routes in the hall. Did the clamp in the 5-day big wall is thus still out ... ;)

In the last year has proven its Petzl ascender, newly-German " . Ascender "missed a few improvements and now there are not more blue and gold in his hands, but silver and black of course, is the new color scheme is not the only innovation Petzl writes about himself.

Petzl.com:

Recent improvements inlcude:
- The Ascension's handle is now more comfortable
- the cam has been refined to increase the efficiency in Which the ascender glides on the rope
- increase the durability of these devices

More specifically, the ergonomics of the handle has been improved so that the hand held in the pulling down movement more support. It was also improves the clamping device of the rope, so that even in dirty or icy conditions, the rope is always good and easy. That overall the durability is improved, you have to think now at least. My Petzl Ascension certainly looks far more like new.

The processing and handling of the terminal is great and it runs very easily on the rope. On the nature of the mechanism for releasing the clip, nothing has changed. As with the old classics, there are two positions of the lever, so that either the teeth away from the rope in order to clamp down on the rope to lead or to guide in the fully open position to the terminal or from the rope. It is still early May, a larger Amount of new routes to screw in the hall at, so I'll test the terminal there again intense.

to tuning up to the real use of the Petzl ascender, here's a beautiful film:



There are for me with the new terminal no huge surprises. It just does exactly what it should. All others are to assess the techno-buddies.


clip made!

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birthday climbing

I think it's always great when you can do things together. Last weekend we moved two special great things together - namely, climbing and birthday parties. Since the report of the wonderful birthday party you would just jealous, I will confine myself to the "blog" of climbing facts. We

Saturday were in Bisperode at (I will not mention often) perfect climbing weather. More specifically, we "Isa the flu," "Peter the historians", "Lukas the Brave" and "Bee Hans" and "chamois Jeannette" were. In perfect weather (achja. ..) we moved to a beautiful hike garlic position in the peace stone, stone wall or on the peace. There followed many paths on both walls. These are here for the purpose of documentation and against the Forget to comment below: Kantor crack (. Entry is easier than it looks), Märzweg (. Beautiful crossing), Kathetenweg and small wedge (I think ...), left Doppelverschneidung (Evaluation proposal: 4 A1 + Note. Next time, take place snare head), Slabstick (hard six in the roof).!. Then the peace stone Blow Up and metastasis (Both somehow hard.) kickdown (Well fought Luke! 6 +?) Diagonalweg (easier with no flu.) And as the thick end of the Vendetta (Did you first get started, is then only hard ...). Once again it was confirmed that the old ways are Bisperode rated quite solid hard. Overall, however, a very, very nice climbing and hiking through the half on Sunday should be completed perfectly.

Although shrunken in occupation, but with more sun, we found ourselves for a few sunny hours in the car park wall into wood. My initial skepticism was whether the sand beach in the rocks while not totally disproved, but the climbing difficulties were clearly other factors. For example, by wearing a black cotton shirts in the very first route. The sun was quickly convinced that this had to be stored. Yes, it was warm!

climbing routes have been nice, as my broom Dusk (A little sandy, but beautiful.) Geile miles (something I'm all over the Ith never touched. Elbi sends greetings ...), Holzen Premium (beautiful, beautiful!), Henkel edge (fast over the roof ...) and the upper HW ass (Beautiful way! Flash!). Overall, the red point and flash density impress the whole team! :-) Nice and relaxed, especially climbing the hours were, especially as the fullness suspicion of the parking lot else.

And then the birthday dinner buffet ... ok ok, I hear it on!

rope!

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Grrrrrr

I was almost finished with the edge - look forward - nothing there ... about 75 cm around the rear, a fold!! reingequiltet ----- DISCONNECT!!

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DMM Wallnut Chocks - Product Test

Since we launched last weekend, the Easter bunny sunny climbing days, I used the same chance to try out a new set of chocks DMM and test.

My old "Rocks" by Wild Country have already seen many years of the rock and the ravages of time has gnawed at them very much. Here in product test, they are my personal benchmark to see above all times, whether a switch is worth to new wedges.

The set nuts, which I use for this test consists of the "big" Sizes ranging from 7 to 11 and thus from 5 wedges. First of all a lot to me, that distinguish the different sizes of the wedges on the color of the anodized aluminum body. Whether and how long will the color may well remains to be seen. The plastic sheathing of the wire connection, however, is neutral and black bear only the size number. As it applies to first memorize the new colors, but that it should not fail, yes. In addition to specifying the size of the ultimate load is given the same for this kit for all sizes with 12 kN. With my old wedges of Wild Country missing this information - maybe even better that way ... The modern game Countries in size but are also certified to 12kN.

The processing of Wallnut is best - as far as one can judge the outside. The wire cables are a little tighter and stronger than my Wild Countries. Whether this is the age difference, I do not know, but I suppose.

What is next to the same color as the second positive notice the weight. As soon as I held the bundle of wedges in your hand, I thought "Wow, are these things now become easy!". Also, the objective comparison of the scales confirmed my feeling. Even the large wedge is 10 to 55g in comparison to the old Wild Country with all 70g 15g lighter but just as, effective size. A full rack is läppert the wedges together already. The modern game Countries are consistently heavier than the Chocks of DMM, but also have a slightly more elongated shape and thus more material is needed.

The third obvious difference to my old rock, the shape of the wedges. The photos show the 10 wedge the two manufacturers (and age) in comparison. While the clamping wedges of Wild Country , also set in the modern version of the classic wedge shape, DMM has the wedges on the two sides closed two elongated troughs and at the end of the convex side donated a small nose.

The practical test went smoothly, although quite limited, as in the Ith rather small sizes are in demand - at least in the routes last weekend. But what was so far to report from the DMM is only positive. In addition to the pleasant weight was the laying of the wedges, also supported by the slightly stiffer wire problems. It seemed that the slight hollows supports positive especially with the somewhat uneven and wavy cracks in the seat of the Ith-lime wedge. As the then Norwegian granite behave, I will, together with a test of the small sizes, to turn in because I have decided to acquire another set of small DMMs - even if I have to learn new colors! Oh, by the pictures, there not rock, because I wanted to photograph any "fake placements" and the "real" wedge bodies looked, only one wire from a crack, so little meaningful photos.

My conclusion: Even though I just do not like my beloved Rocks by Wild Country wants to send into retirement - it just makes sense. The DMMs are lighter, have a higher tensile strength due to age and are now in place through their particular form came positive only in appearance. As the handling will be long term, can just be said only long-term. What a compelling logic. :)

Wedges!


W urther Informaitionen and links:

• Climbing Shop Bergfreunde.de
• DMM Climbing
• Wallnut in DMM (English)
• Wild Country
• Passive Protection to Wild Country (English)
• Test DMM Wallnut at climbr.de
  

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diligent I was ...

... the quilt is out of the frame - I've never quilted sooo much and still be such a big --- Now missing part of the border and binding, label behind it and ready !!!!!!! It is still a secret project, because I do not know whether the child may see .... Therefore, there are no more images

... but you can see another plant that is already finished: the confirmation gift for the friend of my daughter - first the label .. ...

then one of the letters ---- also pretty much quilted ... great practice piece

heart I had to embroider with beads, because it bulged too much ...

has a total work really fun because I quilted a lot of different things / patterns.

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sewing room

Here is my "empire" .... I once had my own room, but now lives as the third child to me .... I share the attic with my husband, who his job is directly across the table ... is about 1x2 m, at the front yet another table is a little higher with my Zuschneideplatte, I then put the little board out of Sweden, is unused, mostly behind the door ... ; behind me on the shelf all possible technical sewing .... ... the right of the working chair (covered) magazines and books) and these are my stocks at the door ... so I've also served on the last corner in the attic. ....

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And ready!

So, I did it ... the quilt frame is finished and ready for use and already tested ... there are quite a few things to consider: first, the width! ! Then you have to make themselves familiar with the guidance of this first part went fine ... the quilting itself. To tighten the pages I've thought the suspenders clip version.

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Angeholzt

has recently been "first barbecue," I've smelled. Yesterday we "angeholzt" and have promised the Easter sun used to Ith in the wood, the first climbing meters of the year on to make rock.

with Isa, Claudia and Jan, we were yawning and shivering, but with high spirits, at 9:30 clock in the sun in the parking lot under the rock of wood. In particular, the Tyrolean eyes eyed anticipation the promised, North German climbing Mecca. Even after the climb to the rocks, the first climbing routes in the sun on the limestone and the relaxed atmosphere in the forest but a new Ith-girlfriend was found.

We climbed several routes on the wall ladder to heaven to us the advancing hordes of the displaced Obliwand because unfortunately Dragon Wall & Co is gesprerrt over bird breeding. There we enjoyed ourselves with a few clean routes, after I received a red dot in the was allowed to pick up 2hoch6 +1. Just before sunset, I discovered something further down the wall a troll platy edge, which was identified as climbing days end, especially since it reminded me of my Norway. But only until I had a piece in hand Bröselkalk almost tilted from the wall. Echter, Norwegian granite has been something ... ;)

Conclusion: Super day, no exploits, but had a lot of fun and Isa is in love with the Ith!

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quilt frame but

Now we're back: From the bathroom retailers: three tubes, cut to 145mm, three connectors, 6 caps, six bolts, six wing nuts, a piece of scrap wood .. .. The caps were pierced through ... put the screws ... I was concerned that the screws fall out again, or tighten continue, I wanted to attach with hot glue ... but was not purely down to the bottom .... I for security I simply have stuffed some tape so that the screws do not fall out ... when the sample was not a firm hold of the problem ... Piece of wood, I then held my Benina and estimated how much space for quilting is rolled up as ....'s role will soon go on!

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Nu ...

ran to the machine! Of course I was not idle all the time .... have several UFOs edited and produced new ... first - the implementation of batik stripes - exchange action of the QF --- is already finished, the top ... kanbn but it shows only after giving away ... before that comes my Quiltrahmenbau!!