When I Mammut Smart the first time I saw on a picture, I immediately thought: That thing makes sense! Easy, no moving parts and the handling intutiv as the Tube. I placed my order on Thursday at Bergzeit.de , on Saturday it was later in the mail and one day I tried it.
I have hitherto secured with ATC. As the mammoth Smart is handled basically the same, was getting used to the very simple and - which I find very important - very safe, as the same, practiced movements are also made at Smart. So who is using the first time the smart just like a tube, makes the first time not dangerous, except that he may be blocked at the cable output device. Compared to the mammoth Smart Tube must be the "red nose" at the cable output pull away from you, to keep the device in a position to not block the rope. It is at the moment almost no more "open" as it is a normal ATC forever. The red nose is a pleasure to hold on to the thumb so that the hand still surrounds the brake cable. Again something that is practiced intuitively for a long time. The only catch the quick transition from rope and then spend the same again (yes is relatively rare) requires some practice, since it is after the gathering with his hand at the bottom and one "high tunnel" again only to the nose shall, before re-rope can be issued.
When a fall or when the climber contact the rope, the device automatically blocks in which the cable between the device and carabiner is trapped. The cable runs in part by somewhat slowly in relieving the brake cable complete. However, when the device then again by the nose down slightly suppressed and thus the clamping effect something "is following suit," it holds and it is the Ausbouldern nothing in the way of a route. This light dynamics in blocking helps in case of fall dramatically. The device will lock just not as hard as Grigri, but slips a bit. Nevertheless, one should of course support the body during a fall this dynamic yet.
When draining the rope is taken with both hands, one hand on the nose Smart is pushed up, so that doses the blocking can be resolved. As written in the manual for the Smart, should not the nose press too high, otherwise the lock is aufhgehoben sudden jerk completely, which then makes the Smart again a normal tube and one at a time the brake cable when draining again has to hold good . This is ansich not bad, only that something has snapped is suddenly and without Vorwahnung what is justified in the carabiner snapping position in the unit. Positive case Nevertheless, it is that the device is not "fully opens," but then just behaves like a tube. The only drawback I've noticed the handling of the Smart with a bit thicker, older ropes. I have consciously tried with my old "Hallentau" and the cable output is a bit heavier. The tool and the crease, making the rope is slightly narrower than the ATC. My old cable is already stiff, and with the original 9.9 mm, it has to do with not much more. Nevertheless, the liquid dispensing cable is quite possible, one need only take a little more, there is something more friction in the device simple and make sure that the red nose of Smart also takes away from you. So overall still quite ok, especially when I remember that I do with my ATC guide more problems with this rope. Overall, I'm
full of enthusiasm to the device. It is just totally intuitive for someone who has previously secured with tubes and brings with blocking an extra comfort and safety. Overall, a great innovation of mammoth, just in terms of intuitiveness, and ergonomics. Respect!
Here again the operation somewhat "intuitive" (Thanks for the hint, Michi!):
info:
smart one!
(Figures (c) by Mammut Sports Group )
